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CS Alternator tips with pictures. by jetman
Started on: 05-22-2006 01:37 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: theogre on 11-23-2006 06:42 PM
jetman
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Report this Post05-22-2006 01:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Hi everyone. I just installed a CS alternator in my 86 V-6 four speed Fiero and I wanted to share some observations and some tips that I gathered along the way for my fellow PFF friends.

First of all, use a good belt such as a Gatorback or a Dayco poly cogged belt. You can see the difference between the standard belt and the polycogged belt in the picture and understand why the cogged belt doesn’t slip. (Picture posted sideways so you could easily read the part number.)



My one man trick to assist in getting the alternator up into position. I attached a coat hanger to the alternator, slid the alternator under the car, stood in the trunk and lifted it up from underneath through the shaft and frame.



Tightening is so easy after I discovered this little trick. The tightening adjustment bolt threads into the CS alternator into a square protrusion and I simply used an open end wrench to leverage tension on the belt. My 86 took a 19-MM and my 87 took a 17-MM wrench, the difference may have been due to different manufactures. This picture tells the whole story for you.



Last tip involves the wiring. As you can see I crimped a ring terminal on to my alternator plug wire harness to attach to my “B” terminal of the alternator instead of splicing it into my main feed. So much cleaner and easier, I also used dielectric grease and you can see the shrink tubing. The rubber boot was cut enough to allow it to slide back into place over the second ring terminal protecting the connection from the elements.

.
I know that I posted some rather large pictures to the PFF server but I wanted everyone who was interested to be able to “see” what I was doing. I have to thank theogre and rabidfiero for their write ups that assisted me in this little project and the good folks who posted in my previous alternator wiring thread. As always, I appreciate the comments, criticisms and or pats on the back.
Oh yeah, the results. Outstanding and I couldn’t be any happier except if I had known about these little tips before hand.

------------------
jetman
Silver 86 SE 2M6 4-speed, with
"check wallet light"

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theogre
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Report this Post05-22-2006 09:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
If you didn't already... you'll want to smear a bit of dielectric on the main output stud.

The notched boot could work against you if there's nothing to repell water. There's a chance the altered boot could hold water under it enough to really corode things.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurasic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

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jetman
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Report this Post05-22-2006 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

If you didn't already... you'll want to smear a bit of dielectric on the main output stud.

The notched boot could work against you if there's nothing to repell water. There's a chance the altered boot could hold water under it enough to really corode things.



Thanks for looking out for me. I read your "wire service" article in the cave many times now and yes I did smear the dielectric grease all over the stud as I assembled it. Thanks again theogre, you're great.

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jetman
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Report this Post11-22-2006 03:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Just wanted to post a little update. I used one of Rodneys alternator brackets and it worked well. Easy to put on, it just slipped over the existing bracket, and I also used a lock washer, that seemed to help keep the alternator from slipping on the adjustment bracket.

I also wanted to mention that I did indead scrub off the pulleys with a brush and brake cleaner to remove the build up. I noticed that there was dirt, oil, grease, and rubber belt material inside of the grooves of the pulleys that had built up to the point that I was surprised that the belt could even get a grip at all.

You know that we (forum) have been combatting the squeeling belt syndrome for some time now, I wonder if the solution to the problem was as simple as scrubbing 20 years of junk off the pulleys. It worked like a charm on one of my Fiero's, will do the same on my other Fiero and will report back with the results.
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yellowstone
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Report this Post11-23-2006 03:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for yellowstoneSend a Private Message to yellowstoneDirect Link to This Post
I have installed Rodey's idler pulley and I've had no more belt squeal...

 
quote
Originally posted by jetman:

You know that we (forum) have been combatting the squeeling belt syndrome for some time now, I wonder if the solution to the problem was as simple as scrubbing 20 years of junk off the pulleys. It worked like a charm on one of my Fiero's, will do the same on my other Fiero and will report back with the results.


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jetman
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Report this Post11-23-2006 11:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by yellowstone:

I have installed Rodey's idler pulley and I've had no more belt squeal...



Absolutely, I will agree that Rodneys idler pulley is a viable option that does stop belt squeal. Best thing to hit the Fiero market in years. It's a great option and Rodney is the best Fiero inventer ever, no doubt. Rodney is my Fiero's best friend!

Now in my case, I'm frugal and perhaps stubborn, just want the factory set up to work well. Part of the problem is that I don't think that GM made it easy for us shade tree mechanics to adjust the stupid alternator in the first place. Its tough for me let alone for our younger members here so I wanted to pass along those tips.

[dumb thoughts]

1) They (GM) should have made an adjustment bolt that tightens the alternator belt tension as you are turning it to a prescribed torque, a set screw if you will.

2) It would be nice if the alternators came with a 3/8ths port that you could use your 3/8ths ratchet wrench on like what is on many tensioners to tighten up the belt tension.

3) How come you couldn't use a slightly larger pulley on the alternator for increased surface area for the belt? Sure, the alternator would turn a bit slower but a CS alternator kicks out so much that it probably wouldn't make a difference.

[/dumb thoughts]

This is what effected my squeal. My alternator was going bad, belt was worn. A worn belt has begun to slip and glaze. Glazing is bad, I was losing my belt gripping power. I had an old non-cogged belt that had to be upgraded. Older electrical systems have poor connections, I renewed several grounds / positives including testing my newer battery. Pulleys were loaded with 20 years of gunk, I scrubbed them clean, used a good cogged belt, Rodneys alternator reinforcing bracket, fresh bolts and lock washers, snugged up the belt and I'm good to go even in wet cold starts.

At first I was lazy, just figured I could whip a cheap belt on and be done with belt squeal. Maybe the key is in trying to holistic in treating all of the factors.
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theogre
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Report this Post11-23-2006 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Cleaning pulleys is important. As you've seen. People would have allot less problems with belts if they did that when replacing things. Belts don't care too much about water but a little coolant or oil that has leaked or spilled on the belt set is a big problem. Some car cleaning/polishing products may also be a problem for Fiero because of the ventilation grates. Even folks running Rodney's pulley product need to keep stuff clean.

On the bolt for tensioning... Some Dodge caravan engines have/had that. Works nice but needs space that Fiero doesn't have.

If you have trouble using a standard wrench on the boss to tighten the alternator... try a "crow foot" on a ratchet handle. That will let you set just about any angle easily. Crow Foot is a chopped open end wrench with a 3/8 drive hole on it.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-23-2006).]

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